| Operational
Temperature |
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The
Kiln Sitter is engineered to withstand kiln temperatures up to and
including cone 8. Temperatures higher than this limit will reduce
the normal lifetime of the cone supports and sensing rod. |
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During
the firing of clay, glazes and especially metallic colors, various
gases are generated which can corrode the metal parts of the Kiln
Sitter. It is recommended that the kiln be slightly vented (provided
you have a Kiln Sitter installed and no other automatic vent system)
during the entire firing period by leaving the top peephole open at
allow the gases to escape. All other peepholes should be closed. |
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Kiln
Sitter Troubleshooting
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"Kiln
Sitter Trouble Shooting" by
W. P. Dawson
Here
are some of the most common problems you may have with the "Kiln
sitter" and the proper solutions.
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NEVER
USE ANY TYPE OF LUBRICANTS ON THE "KILN SITTER"
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The
problem of a consistent over or underfire is from improper adjustment
of the "Kiln sitter" trigger and claw assembly. Readjust the "Kiln
Sitter" according to the operators manual on pages 3-4. |
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1
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The
problem of erratic firings (some may be correct and others overfired)
can usually be traced to a corroded swivel on the tube assembly. To
check for this, remove the guide plate and look at the area of the
tube assembly where the rod comes through the tube. If any corrosion
can be seen on the outside area around the swivel, replace the tube
assembly. Pages 12-14. After replacing the tube assembly, readjust
according to the operators manual, pages 3-4. |
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2
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If
you find that this is a problem or suspect that it might be a potential
problem, be sure to vent the kiln adequately for itÕs size and load.
A minimum for the smaller kilns would be one peep hole and on the
larger kilns, at least two (top and bottom). |
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3
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If
you find that you need to increase the venting or feel you need to
close the kiln, leave all the peepholes open until you reach at least
1,100¼F (reddish-yellow heat stage) before you shut the venting down. |
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Plunger
Button Will Not Engage
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1
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If
you find that the plunger button will not engage, check to see if
the timer knob is on the "OFF" position. It must have some time shown
to operate correctly. If you find the cam or lock assembly will not
move to engage the slot in the plunger button, assume it is stuck
to the face plate by something foreign (either corrosion or some sticky
substance). If this is the case, on an "LT" model rotate the knob
past the twenty hour mark while at the same time, pushing in on the
plunger button. This should force the cam into the slot of the button,
manually release the weight to be sure the cam disengages the button
properly. If this doesn'tÕt work, the procedure for all models is
the same, remove the face plate and clean or replace the cam or lock
assembly. Be sure there is no corrosion or interruption of the surface. |
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If
you have any question as to the quality of the part, replace it! |
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Plunger
Button Melting Or Deforming
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The plunger
button will deform if there is too much heat produced at the back
side of the switch. Normally the unit will shut off at this point.
This is to prevent the connections on the back side of the switch
from burning off. If you find this has happened, you must check
the connection on the back side of the switch for damage to the
wires or connectors. If you find any damage that is heat related,
be sure to cut back the wires until there is no more corrosion and
replace the connectors with the proper size. Ring connectors come
in both wire and stud size. On the larger ampere kilns, you may
want to sweat solder the lugs on to the wire. This helps reduce
any connections problems. If
you find any problems with the switch assembly, please refer to
number five.
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Switch
or Contact Problems
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1
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If you encounter
any burning or sticking of the contacts, you must replace the contacts
and determine the cause of the problem. You may refer to the number
four trouble shooting answer to find possible reasons for your switch
failure. If after inspection, you determine that the damage is heat
related, go through the steps outline in number four.
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2
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The
switch should be inspected for any heating of the center post spring
or blackening of the porcelain block. If you find either on of the
above, replace the switch assembly with a new complete assembly. |
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3
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*NOTE:
The screws on the switch should always be checked for tightness. Heating
and cooling can loosen the connections. |
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Cones
Sticking or Breaking
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If
you find that the cones are breaking, stretching or sticking, the
cone supports should be replaced. If they are rough, kiln wash should
be used lightly. The cone needs to slide on the cone supports for
a reliable firing. A small nail polish bottle cleaned and filled with
a watery solution of kiln wash works well to coat the supports. Rub
kiln wash off the cone supports with your fingers after each firing
and reapply. |
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Chipped
Or Broken Tube Assembly
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If
you find that the tube assembly is chipped where the cone supports
are held at the end of the tube assembly, replace the tube. If the
tube assembly moves or can be rotated, replace the tube assembly.
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Sensing
Rod Bent or Tapered
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The
sensing rod will begin to taper and wear with use depending on the
type of firings. If you can see any tapering of the rod assembly,
replace it. If your tube assembly is older, be sure to check the swivel
area for corrosion as outline in number two. If there is any doubt,
replace the tube assembly. |
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| 1 |
If
you suspect that the timer is not operating properly, set the timer
for one half hour to check the operation for a short test. There is
no need to have the element switches on for this test. If you find
that this test functions the motor properly, you may test it along
with your next firing. Keeping a record of where it started and how
many hours were left after the firing. If after these tests you find
the motor is not functioning properly, replace the timer motor. |
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2
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Remember
that on all the "Kiln Sitter" models, the rod assembly should move
without any obstructions. All adjustments are done with the gauge
in place. Remember to remove it before firing! |
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All
parts are available from W.P. Dawson or the kiln manufacturer.
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