| 1. |
Preparation |
Before
using stir well with a stick until smooth. This may take some time - and
you can use any electric paint mixer - as long as you let the slip set
at least 2 hours to make sure no air bubbles are left in the slip. The
process is the same as if you are pouring porcelain slip.. If
necessary add distilled water to thin. |
| |
|
| 2. |
Pouring |
Use only plaster molds.
Be sure the mold is dust free and dry. |
|
| |
|
Pour without stopping
on the side of the opening of the mold, just as if you were pouring porcelain
or composition. |
| |
|
Wait 15 minutes before
emptying. |
| 3. |
Emptying |
Empty casting slip,
letting it drip completely. |
|
| |
|
Empty poured slip into
a different container than the original so as not to contaminate the original
casting slip. |
| |
|
Keep containers tightly
covered for future use. |
|
| 4. |
Unmolding |
Wait one hour before
opening mold. |
| |
|
Keep the
piece open on one side of the mold for an additional hour. |
 |
| 7. |
Painting |
Once hardened
CoolCast can be painted with any kind of paint. (Just the regular old acrylic
craft paint you get at any hoby store in a flesh tone works really well.
So does the Composition Body Stain.) |
 |
| CoolCast can
even be varnished. See Painting
Composition Tips for some tips that you can use on CoolCast too. |
| P.S. Don't
seal the CoolCast with Gesso before painting it - the Gesso separates from
the CoolCast (as we've found out while experimenting...) and the paint comes
off. |
| You can
rub the finished piece with a soft wax to give it a "glow". |
